Eyebrow architecture - what is it, step-by-step instructions, schemes for correction, coloring, shaping at home

Eyebrow architecture or "brow-art" is a step-by-step process of modeling, shaping, correcting and coloring the hair in the eyebrows on the face. Step-by-step training will help you learn about the methods of conducting, preparing tools and materials, the features of choosing the ideal one for a particular type of person, as well as performing a salon procedure at home.

What is brow architecture

Eyebrow architecture (step-by-step training is available for beginners) is initially a salon procedure that allows you to emphasize or correct the shape, change or brighten the color, and simulate the optimal shape for a given type of face.

A session consists of several stages:

1. Choosing a shape by type of face.
2. Removal of excess hairs (with a thread, tweezers, wax depilation or sugaring).
3. Color selection and staining (henna, paint).
4. Carrying out a color correction procedure with a long-term effect (tattooing, microblading).
5. Daily care activities, make-up.

Naturally inexpressive outlines will be transformed by step-by-step correction followed by coloring. The procedure is performed purely taking into account individual characteristics, color type, proportions.

How does eyebrow architecture differ from correction

The two procedures, similar in prince and cosmetic tasks, have some differences. Brow art is a more complex and multi-stage procedure, while correction is only an integral part of it.

During the execution of the architecture, detailed planning initially takes place, new outlines are created, the shape is transformed, marking, calculation of bending points, length and width, choice of color and painting techniques. Only after that, the correction is performed with the removal of excess hairs.

There are several correction methods - wax removal, treatment with tweezers or floss, shugaring and hair cutting.

What materials are needed

To perform the procedure efficiently, having obtained an effective result, it is necessary to prepare materials:

• Color correction. For a long-lasting effect, henna, paints, colored waxes, shadows and powders are used.
• Styling. To style the hair neatly, you will need a round stiff bristled brush or mini comb and clear wax to hold it in place.
• Shape correction. You will need tweezers to shape and remove excess hairs. The device can be made of durable plastic or steel. Tweezers come in beveled, straight or pointed edges. You can also use the flossing method, trimmer, or epilator with a facial attachment.
• A haircut. For a light haircut at the base, you need scissors with straight and sharp edges.
• Form creation and markup. To correctly determine the point of bending and the length of the eyebrow, a soft flexible ruler with millimeter marks is required.
• Choosing the optimal shape. To simplify the architecture process, stencils can be used - special templates for shaping eyebrows.

The obligatory set of the brow-master must include disinfectants, cotton pads and sticks, paint brushes, a pencil for marking.

Eyebrow shaping based on face type

Eyebrow architecture (step by step training includes principles for determining the shape) - a step-by-step procedure The basis is the selection of the shape taking into account the type and characteristics of the face.

Rules:

• For the oval type: this shape is the most proportional, the cheekbones are softly defined, the lines of the jaw and forehead are almost equal. This type is universal, any shape is suitable for it, but it is preferable to have an eyebrow of medium width, rounded with a low arch. It is recommended to avoid a sharp break, which will make the face disproportionately elongated.
• For round type: the main goal is to visually lengthen the face. Lines with a clearly defined break from the middle will cope with the task. A too rounded shape is not recommended, emphasizing in this case the disproportionality of the outlines.
• For square type: the task is to soften the pronounced geometry, graphic appearance of the face. The ideal shape for this type is a moderately wide line with a sharp angle and a high arch.
• For the triangular type (heart shape): a distinctive feature is a pointed chin and sharp cheekbones. Smooth rounded lines will help soften the angularity. The height of the arch is chosen in proportion to the lines of the face - the longer it is, the higher the arch.
• For diamond type: the shape resembles an outwardly regular oval, but with a more pronounced geometry of the lines. The optimal shape is a classic arc or lines with a slight break.
• For pear-shaped: a straight shape with a slightly rounded end is suitable. To balance the proportions of the A-type, you can increase the eyebrow distance.

In addition to determining the type of face, it is necessary to take into account its proportionality, the shape and thickness of the lips, the height of the cheekbones, the shape of the nose.

Selecting a bend point

Architectural planning requires an accurate calculation of length, width, and definition of the bend point.

There are several methods for optimal selection:

1. French. The fitting scheme is used for triangular, square or round face types. The essence of the technique is to select the bend point above the level of the outer edge of the iris.
2. Hollywood. The technique is similar to the French one. The point is selected above the level of the outer edge of the iris, but with an offset towards the temple. To make it easier to determine, you need to draw a visually straight line from the chin to the temple through the iris. This fitting technique is suitable for oval and diamond-shaped faces.
   
3. Russian. Suitable for wide, round or square faces. The highest peak of the kink is located just above the pupil.

Determination of width and length

To build the length of a flawless eyebrow, you need a pen or pencil, a ruler:

• First you need to define boundaries. To determine the inner border, attach the handle to the edge of the nose, directing it to the inner corner of the eye.
• Mark the point at which the line intersects the browbone. For the simplest determination of the peak point of the line, the pen should be positioned from the edge of the nose, leading it up past the pupil. To define the boundary, the handle is positioned in the direction from the wing of the nose to the outer corner.
• By identifying three main points, you can draw the perfect eyebrow line.

It is equally important to determine the optimal width. This should be done on the basis of individual characteristics, without trying to exactly repeat fashion trends. The simplest calculation for the optimal width is 1/2 the size of the iris. For women - owners of small eyes, the proportion should be reduced - 1/3 the size of the iris.

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Eyebrow tinting

Eyebrow architecture (step-by-step training is accompanied by a photo) is a complex process, one of the stages of which is coloring. The simplest and most inexpensive way to apply at home is to use eyebrow dye. The durability of the effect is from 7-10 days.

The requirements for the selection of the coloring composition are as follows:

• hypoallergenic and safe components in the composition;
• lasting effect;
• proven quality.

The palette of paint shades is rich - these are both pure natural shades and unusual halftones, which allows you to choose a color for any color type, hair color. In addition to professional paint, henna or biotattoo can be used to add color to eyebrows in architecture. The advantage of this type of staining is the durability of the result and safety, since henna is a natural product.

You can use makeup to add the desired shade. The advantage of this technique is simplicity and the ability to get a result in a matter of minutes. But this method has a significant drawback - the short-lived effect. Of the permanent staining methods, the technique of tattooing and microblading is used.

Eyebrow makeup

The final stage of architecture is makeup. It can be done with eyebrow mascara, eye shadow, special powder and classic pencil. The easiest and fastest way to shape and color is with a pencil, but you can combine the techniques to create a natural effect. The modeling principle is the same.

After building the perfect line, choosing the length, width and peak break point, you can start makeup:

• Before dyeing in the color of the eyebrows, comb with a round brush, directing the hairs to one side.
• With a pencil, draw the lower and upper border of the eyebrow, defining the contours.
• With a pencil or brush (when using shadows and powder), shading over the inner part of the eyebrow.
• Use a brush to blend the pigment to give the brows a natural look.

• The final stage of the makeup is fixed with transparent wax.

Henna biotoage

The architecture of eyebrows with henna has a lot of advantages. Step-by-step training will help novice bro-masters complete the procedure at home. The main advantage of henna is naturalness and hypoallergenicity. Biotattoo allows you to get the desired color, the effect can last from 4 weeks or more.

Step-by-step instructions:

1. Preliminary stage. Before staining, the area must be scrubbed and degreased with lotion to cleanse it of makeup residues and keratinized microparticles. Elephants use a special shampoo that helps the hair scales open and better absorb pigment.
2. Correction. If necessary, remove excess hairs with tweezers or a thread, trim at the base, giving the eyebrows the correct shape for this type of face.
3. Color selection. Classic henna is a herbal powder with a pleasant herbal scent. When stained, it gives a reddish tint. Modern henna-based coloring compositions have a varied tint palette. To achieve the desired color, henna is mixed in various proportions:

• with basma - chestnut tone;
• walnuts - chocolate;
• cocoa - a shade of mahogany;
• coffee - golden chocolate.

4. Preparation of the composition. If professional henna is used, then the solution is mixed in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. To prepare the composition from dry powder, it is necessary to dilute it in warm water by adding a few drops of lemon juice. It is better to stir the mass with a plastic spoon.
5. Coloring. The henna modeling process consists of several stages:

• dilute henna with water to a liquid slurry;
• draw a contour with a beveled tip brush, marking the lower and upper borders with a line;
• tint the inside with the wide part of the brush or with a round brush;
• cover your eyebrows with plastic and hold the mixture;
• after exposure, remove the composition with a napkin, remove the remains with a damp cotton pad.

The dyeing time depends on the desired color intensity. The longer you keep the composition, the brighter the shade will turn out. The holding time for the first staining is at least 40-50 minutes. In the future, you can keep henna less.

Architecture paint

One of the ways of architecture and giving the lines the desired shade is to paint with professional compositions. The kit includes a pigment and a developing emulsion. It is not recommended to use a hair coloring compound for eyebrow coloring, as it is more aggressive and can cause allergies.

Before the procedure, it is necessary to carry out an allergic reaction test by applying a little paint on the skin in the area of ​​the elbow bend.

If there is no negative reaction, you can start the staining process:

1. Cleanse the skin and degrease the area with an alcohol-based lotion.
2. Wearing protective gloves on your hands, dilute the composition. Mix pigment and emulsion in a plastic container.
3. Using a flat, beveled brush, paint in one thin layer.
4. Apply another thicker layer on top for full coverage. Excess composition can be removed with a cotton swab.
   
5. After the holding time required for the reaction, rinse thoroughly.

To keep the color as long as possible, you should avoid scrubbing in the staining area. It is recommended to lubricate the hairs with castor oil daily.

By thread

One of the techniques of architecture and creation of the ideal shape is using thread. The method is considered the safest and most painless, but some skill is required for a successful correction.

For work, you need a cotton thread with a segment of 50-60 cm. Silk thread is more durable, but thanks to its smooth structure, it glides along the hairs, preventing them from tight grip. For a successful maneuver, the length of the hairs must be sufficient for a firm grip in the loop.

Thread correction algorithm:

• Prepare the area, treat with alcohol-based lotion or tonic.
• To numb the area, you can steam the skin with a hot towel and then dry thoroughly.
• Fold a piece of thread in half, tying it with a strong knot.
• Putting on the index and thumbs, stretch in a circle.
• Twist in the middle 8-10 times in the form of infinity, so that one loop is smaller than the other.
• Attach the thread tightly to the area with the twisted part under the hairs, and with a loop above them.
• The small loop stretches sharply, the middle rises up, capturing the hairs and removing them along with the bulbs.

The entire zone is processed with similar manipulations. The main task is to grab the hairs as tightly as possible and pull them out in the direction of growth.

Sugar paste

The eyebrow architecture (step-by-step tutorial below) can be performed using the sugaring method - a gentle and hypoallergenic procedure. First, you need to prepare a caramel paste in the following proportion: 2 parts sugar, 1/2 lemon juice and 1/8 water. A viscous cosmetic caramel is being prepared in a water bath. The composition can be stored in the refrigerator, sealed with a lid.

Eyebrow sugaring procedure:

• Prepare the skin, steam with a compress with a hot towel, and then treat with an antiseptic.
• Comb the hairs, lay in the desired direction, determine the removal zones.
• Apply a greasy cream to areas that do not need to be removed.
• Thoroughly knead a ball of paste in your hand, apply to the areas with a spatula against the growth line. Cover the top with a tape of fabric or paper, tear off the strip with a sharp movement along the growth.

• After shugaring, treat the zones with chlorhexidine.

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Lamination

Lamination allows you to restore volume, carry out correction, modeling, staining, has a strengthening and healing effect.For the treatment of hairs, various formulations are used based on weighting components, keratin, caring plant extracts, with a coloring hypoallergenic pigment.

The procedure is carried out in several stages. First, an architecture is performed with the determination of the optimal correction for the type of face, the removal of excess hairs. Then a special composition is applied to the eyebrows, which envelops each hair in a thinnest film, making them stronger, healthier and smoother. The effect after lamination can last for 2-3 months.

The architecture of the eyebrows allows you to make the look more expressive, adjust the proportions, choose the shade and shape. Step-by-step training allows you to successfully carry out a salon procedure at home.

Article design: Lozinsky Oleg

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