Hardware manicure training for beginners. How to do it step by step, cutters, attachments, sets, machines

Girls are increasingly thinking about home practice in the field of hardware manicure. Some - to provide services, others - to save money spent on nail salons. In any case, training for beginner masters begins with preparatory instructions.

What is hardware manicure

Hardware manicure is one of the methods of nail care that is rapidly gaining popularity, and more and more women prefer it. It was invented not so long ago in Germany by masters of beauty salons. It is based on a method of caring for nail plates without the use of cutting tools (or with partial use).

Principle of operation

The essence of this method is to remove the cuticle with a cutter of a grinding machine. Then, using different types of attachments, the nail plate is carefully polished, and the skin along the contour of the nail is removed. Hardware manicure belongs to the class of gentle nail procedures, which are recommended to be done no more than once every 2 weeks.

It is strictly forbidden to work with the device on wet skin, because the cutter working at high speed will begin to tear the skin steamed in hot water instead of cleaning it.

A master with little experience may not follow the pressing force and, pressing the nozzle too hard, will scratch the nail and leave furrows on the surface. The same problem applies to beginners who decide to purchase a similar device for home nail treatment. In both cases, you should be extremely careful and calmly gain experience.

Hardware manicure is a good choice when the cuticle grows too quickly or the nail plate is folded, coupled with irregularities and ribs.

It is also recommended to perform it on extended nails for gentle care.

The effect of such a procedure is hardly noticeable on the neglected state of the nails and is not at all related to the quality of the attachments. In such cases, manicure masters use combined solutions, first processing the nail plates with a machine, after which they complete the process with already cutting devices.

Requirements for the processed surface

For owners or future owners of the device, you need to know what the surface of the nail should be during processing.

It is worth carrying out the hardware procedure exclusively on dry nails. Even very well wiped nails after washing hands should no longer be processed with a tool, as they absorb moisture very quickly. When working, due to moisture, such nails will begin to heat up, which will cause discomfort at best or lead to nail damage.

If the device has a system for manual adjustment of the number of revolutions, a beginner should not set too high a speed, as well as too low.In the first case, you can accidentally damage the nail, in the second, lead to heating of the plate, even if it is perfectly dry. An acceptable option would be no more than 10,000 rpm.

Advantages of hardware manicure

Having paid a large sum once and purchasing a device, you can forget about expensive hand care products and tools forever. Working with nails becomes safe, eliminates the risk of injury, makes the procedure painless and allows you to work with both the cuticle and the nail at the same time. Also, with timely sterilization of the nozzles, the chance of infection after treatment disappears.

Hardware manicure (training for beginners helps to master the basics of safe nail correction) provides an opportunity to process even very fragile and thin nail plates without risk and takes less time than working with hand tools, helping to quickly change the length and shape of the nail.

All these advantages, despite the presence of a list of some contraindications, make it possible to process problem nails with this method.

Disadvantages of hardware manicure

The hardware method has its drawbacks, such as compulsory training, even if the beginner is going to carry out the procedures at home. For efficient and trouble-free operation it is necessary to correctly select both the nozzle and the speed of its revolutions for processing each separate area.

The lack of professionalism of the master can turn an initially useful procedure into a painful horror, especially when it comes to processing nails in a person with a thin nail plate. It is best for such people to contact masters with extensive experience in this field.

Contraindications to the procedure

It is unacceptable to carry out hardware manicure on the nails of a woman suffering from one of the following ailments:

• The cuticles are inflamed and swollen;
• The skin next to the nail is damaged (scratches, wounds);
• The nail is affected by a fungal infection;
• The cuticle is too thin;
• Microvessels are too close to the cuticle;
• Severely deformed nail plates also cannot be processed with the apparatus.

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Preparing for a manicure

Hardware manicure starts in another 30 minutes. before starting to work with nails. The client's hands should be well washed with soap, after which time is allowed to dry completely.

During the training period, beginners need to learn - before starting the procedure, all the elements involved in it must be disinfected. This applies to manicure tools, hardware attachments, skin and nails on the hands of the client and the master. Antiseptic solutions or regular rubbing alcohol are well suited for this.

After that, the nails are degreased. If there is an old varnish, it is removed with a special solution (preferably not containing acetone compounds). A softener is applied to the cuticle of the nail, after which it remains to wait for its effect.

Cuticle hardware technique: step-by-step instructions for beginners

When performing a hardware procedure, first of all, you should adhere to the following list of rules:

1. After the softener works, you should immediately start treating the skin and cuticles. A diamond tip is best suited for this. The main thing is to listen to the client if he feels discomfort, pain or heating of the nail.
2. Once the skin treatment is complete, you should switch to maintenance of the nail itself to give it the desired shape. For this, the nozzle is changed to a trapezoidal or cylindrical. It is important to ensure that the length of the remaining nail is not less than 2mm.
3. The most difficult stage for beginners in hardware manicure is polishing. The edge of the polishing tip does not come up against the nail plate.The complexity of this work is compensated by speed, since an important part of it is the rule - the apparatus does not linger at each point for more than one second.

   

4. The final step of the entire procedure is the application of nourishing oils for the perfect care. In addition to its cosmetic and medicinal purposes, the nourishing oil also helps to get rid of skin and nail particles.

Cutters for hardware manicure: types

The hardware type of manicure abounds in a variety of cutters, which are not limited only by the difference in abrasiveness. Not a little important parameters are the limitation of the working revolutions per minute and the differences in the tip diameter.

Depending on the purpose, all nozzles are divided into three large groups:

• Nozzles for working with the shape of the nail plate and for filing it.
• Attachments for grinding work with the surface of the nail and its cut.
• Finishing attachments for polishing the surface to give a shine.

Also, these groups have their own subdivisions of nozzles for other features.

What cutters are needed for hardware manicure:

Ceramic nozzles

Hardware manicure (training for beginners involves starting practice with a ceramic type of attachments) implies removing the old coating, for which the most common attachment among the workers of manicure service salons is ideal. It is called "corn" because of its distinctive appearance.

Its purpose is high-quality and painless removal of gel polish (there is a version of the nozzle for left-handers).

Also in the list of popular attachments can be attributed to the "carrot", which has received recognition for the quality of polishing the nail.

The main purpose of ceramic attachments is to treat the nail and the skin around it.

These attachments have an inherent stiffness indicator, which is marked with special colors of the rim under the main work surface.

Color match to cutter hardness index:

• Pink or blue - fine grain cutter.
• White - medium grain size cutter.
• Black is coarse-grained.

The first type from the list is well suited for gentle treatment of the skin along the contour of the nail plate. The second will serve to remove pterygium and gently remove the gel polish. The latter is designed to remove keratinized areas of the skin or calluses. It is worth storing such attachments carefully so that they are not subject to destructive mechanical stress.

Diamond bits

Diamond bits are an important tool, divided into many types according to the shape of the product and its abrasiveness. They usually consist of a steel rod coated with a diamond coating (natural or artificial).

Just as in the case of ceramic cutters, abrasiveness can be determined by the color of the rim:

• Yellow color is the smallest crumb, no more than 15 microns.
• Red color - small crumbs, from 30 to 50 microns.
• Blue - medium crumb, from 90 to 125 microns.
• Green - slightly rougher than average, from 125 to 181 microns.
• Black - large grains, within 300 microns.
• Two black marks are very large grains, in the region of 500 microns.

Rare are diamond tips with white or three black marks, the so-called grinder's cutters, which simultaneously serve as a polishing tool. Scarce. Designed to remove highly keratinized skin areas and thick gel layers.

The successful outcome depends on the abrasiveness when cutting the gel polish. Diamond cutters with green or red cut, made in Germany, are in great demand. It is believed that they are of the highest quality in terms of performance. But there is an analogue made in Russia.

Metal nozzles

Metal cutters, in contrast to the same diamond cutters, have a lower price, although they are used for the same purposes. Usually they are made of carbide and tungsten alloys - medical steel. Among the features of steel milling cutters, one can note patterns (notches) on the working surface.They can be straight, oblique or spiral.

Such attachments are well suited for removing horny skin, and not with dust, as usual, but with shavings. It is noteworthy that among the models of steel cutters there is an option made in the "corn" form, which serves to remove old gel polish.

Silicone tips

Silicone tips belong to a group of polishing tips suitable for both artificial and natural nails. Giving shine to the nail plate can be achieved precisely when using these attachments.

They are subdivided by abrasiveness, which is determined by touch: from almost smooth to rough options for grinding. They are made of silicone interspersed with abrasive particles.

Toolbox processing

Clean tools and attachments after each use. The cutters are washed with water, along the way, skin particles are removed from them using a brass brush.

Cleaning in an ultrasonic sterilizer is also a good option. It works on the principle of purification by vibration, which causes the fluid to vibrate. The microbubbles created by this action explode, clearing dirt from hard-to-reach places on the instrument.

Instruments are treated with antiseptic solutions or sterilized in special cabinets, for example, in a dry heat.

All tools made of solid materials are placed in it, after which they are heat treated in an environment with a temperature of 180 ^ᵒC for 30 minutes, then removed and placed in sterile containers with a sealed lid.

Criteria for choosing manicure machines

Hardware manicure (training for novice specialists sometimes takes place on a independently purchased device) is closely related to understanding the criteria for choosing a device.

The first is power.For personal use, too powerful a router is not needed, so you should pay attention to models with a declared power of at least 35, but not more than 50W. However, if every day the masters visit from 5 clients, then you should pay attention to models with a capacity of 100 or more watts in order to reduce the procedure time.

The second is the number of revolutions. Models up to 20,000 rpm suitable for home use. If the number of clients is more than 5 people per day, it is worth choosing a machine that operates at 35,000 rpm. and more. In cases with a professional manicure, the machine must have a speed of 45,000 rpm.

The next criterion will be the provided cuttersincluded in the package. It is very good if the device is equipped with a starter list of basic attachments.

At best, you need to include among them:

• For processing rolls and cuticles.
• Grinding attachments.
• Nozzles for polishing the nail plate.
• Attachments for working with dead skin.

Also, the devices differ in the method of clamping the nozzle. There are 3 types in total:

• manual;
• semi-automatic;
• auto.

In inexpensive models for household activities, a manual clamp is used to fix the working part of the tool when the washer is tightened. A more expensive device will be endowed with a semi-automatic method of fixing the nozzle when the lever is tightened. And the most expensive devices come with an automatic clamping system that fixes the attachment immediately after it is installed.

Working tools for performing hardware manicure are endowed with a collector or brushless motor. The difference is that a brushed motor is designed to operate for several hundred hours, and a brushless one for several thousand.

A machine with a brushless motor will cost more, but it works quieter than an analogue with a collector motor, and is distinguished by the quality and durability of the design. Devices with a collector motor, despite their shortcomings, will quite cope with a home manicure.

The last selection criterion is associated with fine dust released during the operation of the machine. To reduce its amount, you can choose a model of the device with a vacuum cleaner built into the tabletop, equipped with a pull-out tray for quickly cleaning the filter from the accumulated saw cut. If a vacuum cleaner is not provided at all, you can purchase it separately, complete with a stand, dust collector and filter.

Review of popular devices for home use

Hardware manicure (training for beginners is also accompanied by the choice of the first device) cannot be done efficiently without a convenient tool. When choosing, they take into account in which room it will be produced, how the device will be used.

You should not spend money on expensive equipment if you have to do the manicure yourself at home.

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What videos with master classes will help make the perfect manicure even for a beginner

To learn how to do hardware manicure correctly, you should start with simple lessons, which can be obtained from video content with tutorials for beginners. For example, Nadezhda Primak tells comprehensive information about hardware manicure on her official channel or during broadcasts on Periscope.

Olga Zyablova and Tatiana Shestakova show how to properly apply varnish and apply artistic techniques in manicure. On the Kasya Nail Club channel, the presenter, Evgenia Isay, shows and talks in detail about working with a manicure apparatus and correcting the result with cutting tools.

Article author: Fierce oga

Article design: Svetlana Ovsyanikova

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